That’s Steven Jenkins’s magisterial Cheese Primer on Morbier. I love this book, both for its exhaustive treatment of almost every interesting cheese you can buy in the U.S., and for its awesome level of self-satisfaction. Well, I’d be satisfied with myself too if I’d eaten as much good cheese as Steven Jenkins. Here he is on Brillat-Savarin:
Caterers and many of my customers find this cheese to be an impressive offering — elegant and memorable, a cheese that evokes ooohs and aaahs…. Personally, I prefer my cheese to be less showy, less machine-made, less creamy, and more piquant, but whatever makes you happy is good.
The chill of Jenkins’ implied disapproval is hard to stand, but I am crazy about the Brillat-Savarin, which is indescribably rich but just tangy enough not to be boring. “It is rather one-dimensional,” Jenkins says, “much like eating a stick of butter.” Point taken, but if you’re cheese and you’re only going to have one dimension, this is the one to have.