The most seductive of all semisoft cheeses

That’s Steven Jenkins’s magisterial Cheese Primer on Morbier. I love this book, both for its exhaustive treatment of almost every interesting cheese you can buy in the U.S., and for its awesome level of self-satisfaction. Well, I’d be satisfied with myself too if I’d eaten as much good cheese as Steven Jenkins. Here he is on Brillat-Savarin:

Caterers and many of my customers find this cheese to be an impressive offering — elegant and memorable, a cheese that evokes ooohs and aaahs…. Personally, I prefer my cheese to be less showy, less machine-made, less creamy, and more piquant, but whatever makes you happy is good.

The chill of Jenkins’ implied disapproval is hard to stand, but I am crazy about the Brillat-Savarin, which is indescribably rich but just tangy enough not to be boring. “It is rather one-dimensional,” Jenkins says, “much like eating a stick of butter.” Point taken, but if you’re cheese and you’re only going to have one dimension, this is the one to have.

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3 thoughts on “The most seductive of all semisoft cheeses

  1. Maia says:

    OOOOHHHH…you are making me nostalgic for Fairway. Mmmmmmmmmmm….Whole Foods’ cheeses are pre-shrink-wrapped and taste it, plus the people working there know NOTHING. There is no substitute for throwing yourself at the mercy of the Fairway cheese guy: “Give me some of what’s good today!”

  2. Gurpreet says:

    :) did you know how cheese was invented? It wasnt necessity, it was an accident, read this

  3. […] Madison’s not Berkeley, but people in the business of trading fancy food for yuppie dollars are setting up shop everywhere you look. When we moved here, the only good cheese counter in town was at Whole Foods. Now there’s Fromagination downtown (yes, they really called it that. It could be worse! It could be Fromajesty or Fromagnificence or What a Friend We Have in Cheeses. Count your blessings.) And Steve’s Wine Market, already beloved by me for selling all kinds of Unibroue and Ommegang, has just started selling imported olive oils and cheeses, including Brillat-Savarin. […]

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